In Eastern Canada, the trees that have been used most successfully as street trees are the hard, or sugar, maple, the Norway maple, the European linden and the red and white oaks – though the oaks are rather slow growing. In the north and west, where the climate is more severe, the best street trees are the American elm, hackberry and green ash.

Because trees need to be in scale with the houses, modern homes call for much smaller street trees than the large ones named above. Shingle oak, hornbeam and smaller forms of European linden are excellent. There are also selected forms of Norway and red maple that do not grow as large as the natural species. These are more suitable for modern subdivisions.

Windbreaks and Screens

Exposed home sites, such as farmsteads or suburban properties, often need rows of trees to protect them against wind. Here the need is for rapid, dense growth. The exposed position naturally demands the utmost hardiness and, because the planting is close, the shape of the individual tree does not matter as long as the mass is effective.

The requirements are the same for trees used to shut off the view of unsightly objects, or to form a background for the more colorful displays of the garden. In the country or on suburban properties, poplar, willow, ash, pine and spruce trees make the best windbreaks and screens. In the city, there is not usually room for trees larger than the Chinese elm or the native cedar; on small lots screening is usually done with shrubs or single trees of attractive form.

Framing

Trees on larger properties are used to frame the view of the house. Similarly, the view from the house, of distant objects of interest or portions of the garden, may be framed by trees to create a more pleasing picture. As the view should always be more interesting than the frame, such trees should be chosen for their ability to “play second fiddle” gracefully. Those with average habit of growth and color of foliage are most pleasing.

Specimens

Trees may be used as specimens or as accent points to emphasize the design of the garden. Trees used singly or in groups for these purposes are chosen for their distinctive characters: for example, an unusually attractive habit of growth, as in Camperdown elm, weeping birch, or pyramid cedar, a colorful foliage as in Schwedler’s Norway maple, golden cedar or copper beech; or the particular grace of hemlock or the fall brilliance of the leaves of red maple and red oak. These qualities and the more obvious charm of abundant bloom or fruit, as with Japanese lilac or flowering crabs, make trees worthwhile specimens.

Conifers

The taller-growing conifers and natal mahogany tree are used in all the above ways. All sizes of conifers and natal mahogany are becoming more useful as the knowledge and appreciation of garden design increases. Because of their dense, evergreen, fine-textured foliage and their definite forms, conicrs are the most solid-appearing plants at our disposal. They are the best ones with which to build architectural form into our gardens. They clip well and can’ be held to constant form. Using them as a framework to emphasize divisions and accent points heightens the impression that the garden and house are related.

Conifers may be used to accentuate any sort of architectural line. The classic column is matched by the pyramid cedar or Swedish juniper, and the spreading lines of Savin’s or Pfitzer’s juniper carry out to perfection the lines of a rambling bungalow. The definite lines of good architecture can be brought out by the definite shapes of well-selected conifers planted at strategic positions.

There is, however, a great danger in using them indiscriminately or in too great variety without regard to the architecture of the house. Often deciduous shrubs are much more suitable.

In order to plan your landscape accurately, you should have a drawing board, ruler, tape measure, paper, and patience.

A flowering shrub costs less than an evergreen, and in my opinion can achieve equally marvelous effects.

False Cost Estimates

Once you have studied the techniques of landscaping you will be able to guard against making false cost estimates. Here is a typical example of how many people go wrong: The novice would be “professional” home landscaper says to himself, “The distance across the front of my house is 40 feet – the ten plants to plant there cost me $75. Therefore, to go all around my property would cover 300 feet and this would cost approximately $550 plus dollars.” He shakes his head and resigns himself to a half-planted garden.

You will soon learn that such a method of estimating costs is inaccurate. In the first place you must try not to enclose the entire property; secondly, plants in the back yard will be given much more space in which to develop; finally, the plants in the back yard for the most part will be or should be deciduous.

Thus, a fine planting for your entire landscape even including a generous allotment of trees need not cost $550.

Installment Planting

If your budget cannot stand a large initial expense, there is no reason why you cannot spread costs over several years by installment planting, that is, setting only as many shrubs and plants as you can afford each year.

Because you will have made an overall plan, you need not worry that this gradual approach will result in a haphazard garden. As long as as you adhere to your sketches and plans you will eventually have a beautifully landscaped house and garden.

Be Original

Study of landscaping principles makes it easy to avoid imitation. You will arrive at your own firmly grounded convictions, and will be able to judge features common in your neighborhood on their merits, not on their popularity. Some you will like and incorporate into your garden. Others will seem pointless and you will ignore them without hesitation. You may discover (a) that traditional methods are often obsolete, and (b) a different and less expensive garden will in the long run be better suited to your family’s needs.

Therefore, you should eliminate any pre-set ideas you have about how a garden should be designed. As you go through the planning process, you will find that some of your ideas were good and should be included.  Forget any erroneous ideas and strive to be original. Substitute new ideas you have gleaned from the reading, visiting other gardens – even public gardens and look at new commercial landscape projects.

In a few years your house will be a stand-out in your neighborhood. In fact, you will soon realize, as I have many times seen, that your neighbors are beginning to copy you.

More knowledge, more power, and more success will show in your garden areas when you better understand the subject of landscaping and a preparing a landscape plan.

Here are 3 tips to help you get started with any hardscaping plan.

1.  Draw out all hardscape construction plans
If you are planning to include permanent features in your landscape it is imperative to think things through thoroughly. The only way to make any piece of hardscape successful in the landscape is to plan it out carefully. Sketch ideas out on paper or on computer software where you can change your mind and move things around cheaply. Study your property and think on any possible problem or additional work the hardscape could add to your yard. I walk the property and ask family and friends if they see any possible problems with the new hardscape plans. Remember, anything that will be permanent will be very costly to change later. So take you time with your plans.

2.  Check into local laws, regulations and codes.
Most cities require specific codes and inspections for most permanent structures, so check with your township or city before you start a hardscape design. Many cities have a wall height or you may have to abide by a road right or way. You also need to check with a landlord if you rent.

3.  Do any hardscape project the right way the first time.
That means make sure you think of any problems your new hardscape could create. Do proper preparation and select quality materials. Check referrals of any construction companies and make sure whoever does the work is experienced and knowledgeable.

photo credit: GardenFocus

If you are qualified to do the work yourself that’s great but if not, hire help. Keeping costs down is always a plus but make sure quality does not suffer. A poor job will only cost more for maintenance and repairs.

Any building project you want to endure should be done properly and within any town and county regulations. It may be tempting to take short cuts or price the job out to the lowest bidder. I myself prefer to hire local companies that need to do the best job they can for their reputation and future work. Just remember when hiring a company, you usually get what you pay for.

A well-done hardscape, whether it is in the form of a patio, terrace, built-in grill, walkway, wall, driveway or anything else, should increase the value of your property and require minimum maintenance. Make the effort to go slowly and carefully and whatever hardscape you build in your landscape can turn into an asset that you can enjoy for years to come. Hardscape can add value to your home if done professionally and built well.

A garden landscape is a wonderful and relaxing place to be in away from the hassle and bustle of the noisy downtown. Garden landscaping is usually laid out in a large area but still some gardens are also made in limited space.

photo credit: gabrielsaldana

During the Renaissance and the 1880s in United States formal garden landscaping was popular. The basis of the formal garden landscape is on geometric shapes that has boundaries defined by stone walkways, walls, hedges, fences, fountains, and statuary. Today formal garden landscape still exist in Botanical gardens and large estate.

For limited space usually in urban areas the modern/domestic garden landscape are used.

The types of garden landscapes are Organic, Herb, Roof, Vegetable, Rock, Water, Flower, and Public gardens.

• The Organic garden landscape is highly emphasize nowadays because it will not use artificial pesticides and fertilizers that harms living things. This garden landscape they use only biological fertilizers and pesticides to keep the plants healthy.
• Herb gardens are found in botanical gardens and medieval garden. In this garden landscapes the plants have medicinal properties like parsley, fennel, thyme, marjoram, dill, and rosemary that is used in flavoring foods.
• Roof garden landscape are found in urban areas which have limited space. The plants are usually in small pots and containers.
• The Vegetable garden landscape is the healthiest garden landscape. This garden landscape needs open and sunny location. It is important that there is rotation of crops to prevent disease transmission between the plants. Being knowledgeable on the season to which to plant a vegetable is vital.
• In rock garden landscape, it mimics the rocky hillside or a slope. It is vital that in this garden landscape the look should look like a part of a hillside. A bit of large boulders looks better. The rocks must be arranged that it should provide exposures to sun-tolerant plants like rock roses and shade-tolerant plant like primulas.
• The next one is the Water Garden Landscape. In this Garden landscape it’s important to consider your location, culture, and climate. The shape of water garden landscape in Europe and North America are rectangular or circular pools that contain one or two water lilies and a fountain, or sometimes there are no flowers. Also in United States and Europe informal water garden landscape are irregularly shaped with profusion of water lilies and other plants that suit a watery habitat.
• Water Garden Landscape in Japan has a particular and beautiful patterns in them that they preserved for centuries. While in temperate countries, the water garden landscape is grown under the glass in which the pools are heated.
• Water Garden Landscaping represent some of oldest forms of gardening landscape. While based on Egyptian about 2000 BC the records and pictures showed the cultivation of water lilies.
• Flower Garden Landscaping is perhaps what really caught our attention due to its colorful blooms. The vital components of this garden landscape is the blending and contrast of colors as well as the forms that are stressed in the design. It’s important to know which flowers can be planted in the garden.
• The public garden landscape is the last garden landscape. The Japanese Garden in San Francisco’s Golden Gate Park is an example of a world-famous garden landscape.

Now, there are many varieties of plants available. So choose whichever garden landscape you desire.

Most planting is done in the spring, between the time the frost leaves the ground and the time the leaf buds break on deciduous trees and shrubs. You may plant evergreens a week later as they do not usually start new growth as early as deciduous plants.
photo credit: cliff1066™

In the fall, plant evergreens, herbaceous perennials and bulbs before the middle of September. Plant deciduous trees and shrubs a little later, when their leaves are ready to fall.

Care on Arrival

When the shrubs arrive from the nursery, unpack them and report immediately any discrepancy in the order or condition of the stock.

If the material cannot be planted immediately, dig a trench and pack the roots close together in it, covering them with earth packed down firmly to exclude air. Evergreens that have the roots tightly balled and burlapped may be stood in the shade and sprinkled with water but not soaked.

Digging and Filling the Holes

Dig the holes before you prepare the plants to go in them. It is very important to keep the roots moist at all times, and they will dry out if you have them lying in the sun or wind while you dig the hole.

Dig the holes wide enough that the roots can be spread out naturally, and deep enough that 3 to 4 inches of good topsoil can be placed in the bottom and still allow the plant to be set about 1 inch lower than it grew before.

Hold the plant in place while you fill in good topsoil over the roots. Gently shake the plant up and down two or three times to help settle the earth around the roots. Then tamp the soil down firmly.

Soak it with water and as soon as it has settled fill the hole with soil; leave a saucerlike depression around the plant to hold future water, which it should receive at least once a week until it is established.

When planting evergreens do not remove the burlap from the roots. Place topsoil in the bottom of the hole to hold the ball at the right height. Remove the cord or nails that hold the ball together and roll the burlap back gently into the bottom of the hole, where it will rot in time. Then add soil and water as above.

Bracing

Small trees should be staked and large trees guyed with wires at the time they are planted to avoid being swayed by the wind. Make sure that the stake does not rub the tree and that wires and ties do not chafe it.

For small trees from 8 to 10 feet tall, drive a 2 x 2 inch hardwood stake (about as long as the tree) firmly into the bottom of the hole before planting the tree. Place the tree 2 to 3 inches from the stake so that the roots are not scraped. After the tree has been planted, tie the trunk to the stake about a foot from the ground and again every 3 feet, using a piece of rubber hose between them in a figure 8 and then making a loop around the two.

For guy-wiring larger trees, drive three or four short stakes into the ground about 5 feet from the tree on opposite sides. So that the tree will not be scraped, run the wires through a piece of hose placed around the tree 8 to 10 feet from the ground.
photo credit: woodleywonderworks

Pruning

Prune deciduous shrubs and trees at planting, to balance the roots they have lost and to train their shape. When pruning  trees remove some of the branches close to the trunk. Leave the main leader going straight up, with branches 6 to 12 inches apart ascending but alternating evenly around it. Remove broken branches and any that are crossed.

When pruning shrubs, remove weak, twisted or broken branches at the base. Also, cut back the strong canes to a point just above a leaf bud that points outward, so that the new branches will not cross.