In order to plan your landscape accurately, you should have a drawing board, ruler, tape measure, paper, and patience.

A flowering shrub costs less than an evergreen, and in my opinion can achieve equally marvelous effects.

False Cost Estimates

Once you have studied the techniques of landscaping you will be able to guard against making false cost estimates. Here is a typical example of how many people go wrong: The novice would be “professional” home landscaper says to himself, “The distance across the front of my house is 40 feet – the ten plants to plant there cost me $75. Therefore, to go all around my property would cover 300 feet and this would cost approximately $550 plus dollars.” He shakes his head and resigns himself to a half-planted garden.

You will soon learn that such a method of estimating costs is inaccurate. In the first place you must try not to enclose the entire property; secondly, plants in the back yard will be given much more space in which to develop; finally, the plants in the back yard for the most part will be or should be deciduous.

Thus, a fine planting for your entire landscape even including a generous allotment of trees need not cost $550.

Installment Planting

If your budget cannot stand a large initial expense, there is no reason why you cannot spread costs over several years by installment planting, that is, setting only as many shrubs and plants as you can afford each year.

Because you will have made an overall plan, you need not worry that this gradual approach will result in a haphazard garden. As long as as you adhere to your sketches and plans you will eventually have a beautifully landscaped house and garden.

Be Original

Study of landscaping principles makes it easy to avoid imitation. You will arrive at your own firmly grounded convictions, and will be able to judge features common in your neighborhood on their merits, not on their popularity. Some you will like and incorporate into your garden. Others will seem pointless and you will ignore them without hesitation. You may discover (a) that traditional methods are often obsolete, and (b) a different and less expensive garden will in the long run be better suited to your family’s needs.

Therefore, you should eliminate any pre-set ideas you have about how a garden should be designed. As you go through the planning process, you will find that some of your ideas were good and should be included.  Forget any erroneous ideas and strive to be original. Substitute new ideas you have gleaned from the reading, visiting other gardens – even public gardens and look at new commercial landscape projects.

In a few years your house will be a stand-out in your neighborhood. In fact, you will soon realize, as I have many times seen, that your neighbors are beginning to copy you.

More knowledge, more power, and more success will show in your garden areas when you better understand the subject of landscaping and a preparing a landscape plan.

The worst thing about gardening in my opinion is not my weedy garden, or a bed that needs replanting, but rather the fear I have about entering my cluttered dingy garden shed. What makes it worse is the last minute fall pile-in of tools, pots, extra bags of dirt, muddy hoses, etc. If a well ordered garden shed is conducive to efficient weeding, then I have to admit to less than perfect gardening efficiency.

For me, the thought of trying to find a dry pair of gloves and a rusty pair of clippers is enough to make me stay in and watch re-runs of Ellen all day. The only solution to my perpetual horticultural procrastination due to garden implement disorganization, is quite simply a garden shed organization.

But how do you go about organizing your gardening stuff? Well, it may be hard to do, but the first thing you need to do to get things orderly and organized is to totally unpack your shed. Take out the rolls of wire would only be useful for fencing in a horse and a few cows (unless you have livestock, then it’s alright), remove the 12 cans of designer stain that have long ago separated because you left them in the shed all winter and they froze. Throw out everything that can’t be used, give away anything that you haven’t used in a year.

Now that you have gotten everything out of the shed, it’s time for a thorough cleaning. Maybe even a fresh coat of paint on the inside will brighten things up and keep the spiders from weaving webs in every eave and corner. You can also use this time that your tools are out to fix up any problems, tighten the wheels on your lawnmower, and oil up any gears and hinges.

Before putting items back into your shed take the time to add shelves and or hooks. Although an assortment of three inch nails hung your father’s gardening tools, times have changed. In my opinion, those nails are an invitation for spiders to create string art in your shed. Go to your local hardware store and purchase some proper hooks. The hooks are inexpensive and sturdy and plastic coated. Proper hooks and shelving are a worthwhile investment.

Now you can put everything back into a better organized shiny clean garden shed. Knowing that everything has a place, and that you’ve gotten rid of the stock pile of broken tools and cracked pots, will make gardening such a easy chore now. Although it might seem like a lot of work to reorganize and fix everything up, it will be well worth it in the end.

Winter is on the way, and if you have just built your Koi pond this will be the first time that your Koi have had to make it through those long winter months.

Think of Winter as a down period for your fishpond, as less events happen during Winter than any other time. If you wish to make certain that your pond and your fish survive through the winter, you are going to need to take some special precautions though.

Koi Pond Clean Up.

Take about a weekend to go over your fishpond. If it has any unwanted bulk material in it or around it, you need to clean it up. Inside your fishpond, clean up all leaves, silt, and other material from the bottom. Also, remove any plants or flowers that will not make it through the winter.

If there is any rubbish around your fishpond that could blow into it, clean that up as well as you are not likely to notice any of this stuff until spring arrives. Taking the time to make sure that as much debris is removed as possible will prevent potentially harmful bacteria and parasites in the future.

Stop Feeding your pond fish.

This is a very vital thing, then do not forget that you must not give food to your Koi during the winter. When your water temperatures get around 55 or sixtyF, you should only give your Koi food one time daily. When the outside air temperature reaches the 50 mark, you need to wholly stop feeding your Koi.

You might think that it’s okay to feed your fish when the temperature rises above 50 again, but don’t. Koi in general, take about four days to entirely digest their food at temperatures above fifty mark. If you mistakenly give food to your fish to late the food will not digest and will end up killing your fish.

You also need to realize that when a Koi is opening its mouth to you it doesn’t necessarily mean that it is hungry. This is just something that they do out of habit and reflex more than hunger. If you are worried about not feeding them, remember that fish eat other things besides the food you provide them, in particular if your fishpond contains a large amount of natural plant life. Your Koi will fill up on this other stuff if they get hungry and you’re not feeding them.

Check on your pond regularly.

Doing a regular check up on your pond equipment is vital.This includes everything from your filtration system to your store of preventable medications. During those extensive winter months it can be a little more difficult to come up with these pond supplies as a lot of carriers don’t keep them on their shelves during this time.

You also need to make sure that you have an crisis kit ready and up-to-date. This kit needs to include your water testing kits, bags, nets, and any of the medications required.

Get Ready for Cold Weather.

You need to make sure that you are ready for the cold weather, by investing in the required items while it is still summer. Koi have been known to withstand constant temperatures as low 39 degrees, and temperatures slightly lower then 39 degrees, for short periods of time.

If the area that you living gets extremely cold, it is going to be required for you to buy a pond heater. If you do not your pond can freeze over which will potentially trap dangerous amounts of gas inside the water. If the area that you have drops into the extremely low temperatures, you might really want to think about having an crisis tank available inside your home.

Turn Off All Water Sources.

When temperatures get really low, your heater is going to have to toil extra hard in order to keep the water temperature at a point that will allow your fish to remain alive.

If you have water features such as waterfalls, streams, or constant moving fountains, make sure to turn them off during Winter. The circulating action will only labor to thwart your pains at maintaining a warm temperature your pond. With these switched off, the only water that your heater will be responsible for is the standing water in your fishpond.

photo credit: daviza

Dahlias can remain in the ground until after frost. Cut off the stems six inches above the ground and lift carefully, for the tubers are brittle and break off easily. Discard any that do. Place the clumps in flats, stem side down, and let them dry off before storing.

Just before storing cut off the fine roots and cut the stem back to within an inch or two of the crown. They are best stored in a cool place (about 40 degrees) but may be stored at a warmer temperature if covered with peatmoss or sand. Line the storage boxes with paper. A dusting of sulphur before storing will prevent rot. Be sure to tie labels to the clumps so you will know what is what next year.

Tuberous begonias are lifted after the foliage has yellowed, but don’t remove the foliage until it is dry. Remove the dried stems and clean off the dry soil. Store the tubers in flats in a warm place (50 to 60 degrees) and cover them with peatmoss. They need good circulation of air to prevent rot.

Cannas should be lifted after the first frost and stored in a cool place. To prevent shriveling cover them with dry peatmoss or sand. Many, however, no longer store canna roots over winter, preferring to buy live plants each spring.

Lift Gladiolus corms as the leaves begin to turn yellow. After lifting, cut the foliage to within three inches of the corms and then let them dry off in the sun if possible for a little while each day. When completely dry, dust them with an insecticide to prevent thrips injury. Store them uncovered in a cool place.

Ismenes (Peruvian daffodils) must be lifted very carefully to preserve the root system. So, dig deeply. Spread out the plants indoors to dry. Remove the tops but not the roots. Store them uncovered in a place where the temperature will not go below 50 degrees.

Montbretias may be left in the ground if given a heavy covering of leaves. If lifted they should be removed from the ground in clumps with the soil clinging to them. Don’t let the soil dry out.

Tuberose bulbs should be lifted in clumps and dried off for storage in a warm dry place. Divide into single bulbs during the winter or use a second year without dividing the clumps.

In The Greenhouse

Repotting is one of the round-the-year jobs. When in doubt about the need for repotting, knock the plant like the watermelon peperomia out of the pot. If the ball is well covered with roots it is time for repotting. Don’t repot flowering plants that have flower buds forming. Soak new flower pots in a tub of water for at least a half hour before they are used.

photo credit: audreyjm529

Freesias that were potted and placed in the coldframe should now have several inches of growth. Bring them into a cool part of the greenhouse before frost. For better results give them a weekly feeding.

Watering.

Don’t just turn on the hose and water everything in sight. Water plants when they need it. When in doubt give the pot a sharp knock with the handle of your pocketknife and if the pot rings water is needed. A dull thud indicates the soil is still damp. Soil in benches that feels dry and somewhat crumbly needs a thorough soaking with the hose or watering pot.

Find out more as Thomas Fryd shares his experiences on landscaping and gardens at plant-care.com. Get cleared up on watermelon peperomia.

photo credit: quinn.anya

Many tools available can help make these jobs easier, or in some cases, even possible. There are a few basic groups of tools that can help you perform a multitude of task. They are listed below.

• Group 1 is the shovel.
• Group 2 is the rake.
• Group 3 is the lopper, shear or pruner.
• Group 4 is the garden cart or wheel barrel.

The first tool group is the shovel, which is a flattened piece of metal attached to a handle. The main use for a shovel is to move material from place to place. There are many different variations of the shovel. The main types are the rounded or pointed tip shovel. This type digs into material well, and is perfect for digging holes in the ground. The second type is the flat shovel. This one has a wider surface area, and is perfect for scooping from rock or gravel piles. The last shovel is the narrow shovel. These are perfect for digging in tight quarters or for making small holes in the ground.

The second tool group is the rake. There are two main varieties. The bow rake is a thick and sturdy rake, and is used to move heavier items around, such as rocks. The second type is the leaf rake. This has long prongs that flex, pulling leaves along without damaging things under, such as grass.

The third tool group is the pruner, shear or lopper. These cut, trim and clip things to size. Small pruners cut through small, but tough, material. Long grass shears are used to trim materials such as tall grasses or shrubs. Loppers are powerful tools used to cut through thick and tough material such as tree limbs.

photo credit: fotogail

The wheel barrel or garden cart is the fourth group of tools. Both of these items are used to transfer large amounts of heavy and/or bulky material around. Garden carts roll on two wheels, which reduce its maneuverability, but increase its stability. Wheel barrels are the opposite, balancing on one wheel and having better maneuverability and less stability.

If you plan to undertake any landscaping project, whether big or small, you will need some tools. The basic tool groups listed and explained above will give you the ability to perform many tasks outside, and successfully complete your project.

If you are working on any landscape project, make sure you have the right landscape tools and all the landscape supplies to do the job right. Jeremy Szechenyi’s blog, hubpages.com will give you all the information you need.