But there are two questions to ask before starting a project of this size. Is it a design addition that you will want to live with for a long time and what, if any zoning restrictions will apply to a retaining wall?

If the stonewall is the project you want to undertake for your home, climate is your next concern.

A wall, shelter or outdoor fireplace made from brick or stone set in mortar will not stand up in Northern climates unless it is on solid concrete footings. These footings need to go down below the frost line. This can make the wall too expensive for many properties. I live in a zone 5 climate so I have to plan for the effects of frost when creating any outdoor hardscape design.

Provided the drainage in the soil is good, a dry stone wall – one without mortar can be set on a footing of coarse gravel or crushed stone 8 to 12 inches deep and 15 to 18 inches wide. Good drainage in the soil usually means more sand and less of a clay base in your soil. If need be add sand to your mix. This is the style of stonewall I am adding to my home.

If you need a footing, dig a trench for the footing deep enough for the lowest course (layer) of stone in the wall to be buried 2 to 3 inches below the lower grade. For best appearance, build a wall of flat-bedded lime or sandstone from 2 to 4 inches thick, with an occasional thicker piece to avoid monotonous horizontal lines. Always place the bed or grain of the stone horizontally and level, with the trimmed face showing.

As you lay each course in place, to a tight line running the full length of the wall, use a straight-edged board and carpenter’s level to make the courses level. Fill in with earth packed firmly behind each course. Set every fifth or sixth stone with a short face to the front so that the length of the stone goes back into the bank as an anchor.

Note: For safety’s sake, do not build a wall like this over 30 inches high. And for the top layer use broad, flat stones set in concrete mortar. This is the part of a wall I like creating the most. I look for unique flat rocks that will add flair and personality to the wall. I have interesting shapes of flat rock nearby, many with fossil designs.

The rocks set in mortar may crack if the wall heaves from frost, but they will settle back in place afterwards. A good footing should help prevent this or make the problem much smaller.

Also, for strength and river rock landscaping, it is a good idea to build the wall with a slight lean toward the back of 1 to 2 inches for each foot of rise. This will help prevent the rocks from moving forward from frosts or settling.

And as a final consideration is when planning the steps, build the steps into the wall as it is put up, rather than setting them in later. The steps and wall will work together and there will be no hidden surprises. For the steps, have each tread all of one stone, if this is possible, and wide enough so that the step above can overlap the one beneath by 2 to 3 inches.

I mixed stonewall with wooden tiered steps that were 13 foot long. It gives the slope a mixed feeling of stonewall and terraced garden. The steps are dived in the center with a matching wood rail. And the wood raised terraced garden is carried in other areas of the yard and gardens.

As a general rule of thumb grades of over 5 percent are too steep for comfort or for best appearance. They are difficult to mow and often have problems with grass and rutting. I know from personal experience.

Where there are differences in grade on a small lot you should put in steps and a terraced slope.  Or a retaining wall could connect the two levels. With a retaining wall you need to plan for the wall to be sturdy. And check for any construction regulations in your area before starting the project.

The most comfortable steps for a garden path have a 5-inch rise and a 14-inch tread. A 6-inch rise and a 12-inch tread will also work. Anything steeper can be uncomfortable, particularly if it has a rough surface. It’s also wise to include a handrail with any stairs. You do not know who may use the steps and what weather conditions may be, so offer your guests the security of a handrail.

Terraced slopes seem to work best if you use a rise of 1 foot in a 3-foot area, particularly if a power mower is to be used. If the banks are too steep to make grass cutting easy, it is much better to plant them with ground covers. My front yard has such a slope and it has one terraced area near the top were I planted shrubs and perennials and added a set of stairs. The lower section has ground cover with perennial groupings and decorative rocks.

Note: Ground covers add instant beauty to a yard. They can help prevent erosion and cut back on mowing difficult areas. And these perennials come in a wide variety of color, texture and season flowering. But, as with all plants, they can have drawbacks and with ground covers you have to check for invasive spreading. Read the rowing tags and instructions well and ask at the garden center when you buy the plants.

You may also want to consider using heavy mulch or crushed decorative rock in certain areas of a slope. In my area I can find free pine needles and wood chips for free. They add a rich base to a slope to build on.

The main concern when landscaping a graded yard is to simplify yard work, prevent any runoff flooding and to make the area safe for family and friends.

If properly planned a yard with a steep grade can be turned into a beautiful garden area that can be enjoyed. Many slopes have incorporated gardens, plants and a place to relax in the design making it a useful addition to the home and garden area.

The accessories you select should go well with the plants. For example if your overall feel of the yard is country, old farm collectibles, wagon wheels, picket fence and water pump will add to your home. And you may enjoy a classical style but if you have a house full of toddlers you may have to settle for mini garden statues and a small patio fountain.

Most garden areas have decorative containers and statuary. They blend in and add to any décor. Your selection will be based on your style of home, neighborhood and family.

Planting Containers

Containers are essential to most gardens. Containers allow you to fill in blank spots when your flowers die back. They are also a wonderful way to garden in a small space or to add color to your porch. They also give you the opportunity to change the look of your yard and patio area but simply moving containers or adding new ones.

Containers also give you the opportunity to be creative. They can be arranged in curves, placed by driveways, layered or used on terraced hills. And in small space garden area using containers vertically will add privacy and make better use of your limited growing space.

They can be artistic in nature or rustic. The wide variety available will make decorating your home easy and unique to your personality.

Garden Statues

There are two basic rules when it comes to garden statues.

1.  If you are using large statues (3 foot or taller), then 1 per area of your garden will make your garden look good.

2.  If you use small statues then you can put them in groups to get maximum impact. At least three seem to add balance to your area. I like to vary the size of the pieces to create more interest.

And finally, many people use garden art in their landscape design. You can decorate your garden in your own way with a wide selection of one of a kind collectibles that range from mirror to handmade art. If you have a one of a kind piece, make sure it stands out on its own.

One item many people use in a garden area is handmade hypertyfu containers. They are fun to make and are definitely one of a kind.

When adding accessories just remember to have fun. Using that principle the home and garden areas will show your personality and make your living area a great place to relax and enjoy.

CANDLE HOLDERS: Buy or grow your own miniature pumpkins and gourds. Look for ones with flat bottoms so that they will stand tall and not fall over. Cut a circle in the center of the gourd with a lid-cutting saw from a pumpkin-carving kit. Insert a votive or a tall candle. Place them intermittently on the table or on a tray with fall foliage. they also look good on the patio, windowsills and fireplace mantels.

CENTERPIECE: Buy a perfectly round bright orange pumpkin (I like to use a large pie pumpkin). This will be used as a centerpiece for your table. First, cut a hole in the top of the pumpkin with your pumpkin-carving kit safety knife and clean out the seeds and pulp. Place a glass or vase inside that is the same height as the pumpkin and fill it with water. Arrange colorful mums or fall flowers of your choice inside the glass to make a beautiful show-stopping centerpiece. I like either use a few fern leaves and find a vine that will cascade down the side of the pumpkin. Place small gourds around the centerpiece and on the table.

ICE BUCKET: Buy a round orange wide pumpkin with a stable flat bottom. Cut off the top third portion of the pumpkin with a serrated knife. Scrape out the seeds and pulp. Line the pumpkin with a glass or plastic bowl. Fill with ice and you have an instant ice bucket for drinks. Place colorful fall leaves that you have dried or waxed to preserve around the pumpkin.

NAME TAGS: Use very small gourds as name tags or place settings. Place a name on the gourd with a marker or paint. This is a fun decoration for a children’s Halloween party

There are many creative ways to use gourds and pumpkins for fall decorating. You are only limited by your imagination.

An environmentally friendly and garden friendly was to clean your yard of leaves is to use a black bag composting method. I use this method when I am in a hurry and want to collect leaves and forget about them until spring.

All you need are black garbage bags and a place to set them until spring. I will often set them in a place where I might want to put in a new garden the following year – if its out of site and not in the front yard! Along a garage or by a storage shed or woodpile is also a good location.

Why black garbage bags? They will attract and hold heat from the sun helping the leaves to compost faster.

First rake the yard and fill the black bags with leaves. Add a little water and close them with tie wraps. If you have grass clipping you light want to mix some of them in. Place them in an out of the way place and ignore until spring.

In the spring check the leaves to see how they are breaking down. You may want to add grass clipping or straw if you have it. I lightly sprinkle the leave mix and seal it up.

Usually by march the leaves have broken down and can be used in gardens or added t o compost and stirred in. I use the leaf compost around new shrubs or perennials. Its a cheap green gardening technique for your home and garden areas.

One thing that will also help leaves to break down quicker is if they have been mowed. By mowing the leaves you break them into smaller pieces that will decompose at a quicker rate.

Composting by black garbage bags works well in towns and suburban areas where you might not be able to set up a composting bin. They can be easily moved and tucked into small spaces. And within a few months you will have a rich soil mix to add to the soil.