A small indoor greenhouse is perfect for starting bedding plants, healing a plant or as an indoor winter project for children. Such a project encourages an interest in nature and gardening for children.

One of the easiest small greenhouses is created by using a 2 or 3 liter clear pop bottle and cutting the top off about 3 inches from the bottom.  Full instructions for a pop bottle greenhouse can be found here: Pop Bottle Greenhouse

Creating a small Indoor Greenhouse

For a larger mini indoor greenhouse you can use an aquarium. Start by cutting a sheet of 1/4-inch-thick, clear plastic, so it is slightly bigger than the top of the aquarium. A tabletop or circular saw can be used to cut the plastic to the proper size. You can also measure the aquarium and buy a piece of Plexi-glass at a local lumber store. I ask for the seconds or left over pieces to get a better price.

Next drill three rows of three 1/4-inch holes in the top of the plastic sheet. You will want to space the holes 1 inch apart and center the rows in the middle of the plastic sheet. This is for ventilation.

Set a seed starting flat in the bottom of a 10 or 20-gallon aquarium. (I buy my used aquariums at an auction house or garage sale. You can either fill the flat with potting soil and sow seeds directly in it or set plant pots inside the flat. I usually set pots in the flat. I have more control over moving plants if they are individually planted in pots.

You will want to place a thermometer inside the aquarium. Choose the thermometers location by checking to see hoe easy it is to view through the glass. Set the plastic cover on top of the aquarium and place it in a brightly lit window or under a grow-light fixture. You now have a controlled climate that is perfect for starting seeds.

You may want to use grow lights for 12 to 14 hours a day, if there is no sunlight available for your greenhouse. My downstairs kitchen has a large window that has available light all day long. If the day is cloudy I might choose add additional lighting. You can tell if you need more lighting if your plants are getting tall and skinny.

Note: Watch your thermometer and remove the top of the greenhouse if the temperature inside climbs above 80 degrees Fahrenheit.  The seeds may die if the heat is too warm. Replace the cover when temperatures drop below 80 F. This is a general rule for most seedlings. There are some plants that prefer a cooler starting temperature. To determine the proper temperature, do a little research on the seeds you are starting.

Water the soil in the flat inside the greenhouse when the condensation inside the glass begins to decline. Water from underneath. I use a tray and set the plants in that and them drain. You develop better roots from under-watering and have less soil disease problems.

Don’t over water your plants. Check the condensation and use that as a guide.
Small plastic aquariums make suitable greenhouses for single plants. I often use a small greenhouse like this for sick plants.

The plants you start in your small indoor greenhouse can be used to beautify your backyard gardens and patio areas. And if your children participate they will be able to enjoy the plants during the summer.

 

In Eastern Canada, the trees that have been used most successfully as street trees are the hard, or sugar, maple, the Norway maple, the European linden and the red and white oaks – though the oaks are rather slow growing. In the north and west, where the climate is more severe, the best street trees are the American elm, hackberry and green ash.

Because trees need to be in scale with the houses, modern homes call for much smaller street trees than the large ones named above. Shingle oak, hornbeam and smaller forms of European linden are excellent. There are also selected forms of Norway and red maple that do not grow as large as the natural species. These are more suitable for modern subdivisions.

Windbreaks and Screens

Exposed home sites, such as farmsteads or suburban properties, often need rows of trees to protect them against wind. Here the need is for rapid, dense growth. The exposed position naturally demands the utmost hardiness and, because the planting is close, the shape of the individual tree does not matter as long as the mass is effective.

The requirements are the same for trees used to shut off the view of unsightly objects, or to form a background for the more colorful displays of the garden. In the country or on suburban properties, poplar, willow, ash, pine and spruce trees make the best windbreaks and screens. In the city, there is not usually room for trees larger than the Chinese elm or the native cedar; on small lots screening is usually done with shrubs or single trees of attractive form.

Framing

Trees on larger properties are used to frame the view of the house. Similarly, the view from the house, of distant objects of interest or portions of the garden, may be framed by trees to create a more pleasing picture. As the view should always be more interesting than the frame, such trees should be chosen for their ability to “play second fiddle” gracefully. Those with average habit of growth and color of foliage are most pleasing.

Specimens

Trees may be used as specimens or as accent points to emphasize the design of the garden. Trees used singly or in groups for these purposes are chosen for their distinctive characters: for example, an unusually attractive habit of growth, as in Camperdown elm, weeping birch, or pyramid cedar, a colorful foliage as in Schwedler’s Norway maple, golden cedar or copper beech; or the particular grace of hemlock or the fall brilliance of the leaves of red maple and red oak. These qualities and the more obvious charm of abundant bloom or fruit, as with Japanese lilac or flowering crabs, make trees worthwhile specimens.

Conifers

The taller-growing conifers and natal mahogany tree are used in all the above ways. All sizes of conifers and natal mahogany are becoming more useful as the knowledge and appreciation of garden design increases. Because of their dense, evergreen, fine-textured foliage and their definite forms, conicrs are the most solid-appearing plants at our disposal. They are the best ones with which to build architectural form into our gardens. They clip well and can’ be held to constant form. Using them as a framework to emphasize divisions and accent points heightens the impression that the garden and house are related.

Conifers may be used to accentuate any sort of architectural line. The classic column is matched by the pyramid cedar or Swedish juniper, and the spreading lines of Savin’s or Pfitzer’s juniper carry out to perfection the lines of a rambling bungalow. The definite lines of good architecture can be brought out by the definite shapes of well-selected conifers planted at strategic positions.

There is, however, a great danger in using them indiscriminately or in too great variety without regard to the architecture of the house. Often deciduous shrubs are much more suitable.

About the Author:
 

The worst thing about gardening in my opinion is not my weedy garden, or a bed that needs replanting, but rather the fear I have about entering my cluttered dingy garden shed. What makes it worse is the last minute fall pile-in of tools, pots, extra bags of dirt, muddy hoses, etc. If a well ordered garden shed is conducive to efficient weeding, then I have to admit to less than perfect gardening efficiency.

For me, the thought of trying to find a dry pair of gloves and a rusty pair of clippers is enough to make me stay in and watch re-runs of Ellen all day. The only solution to my perpetual horticultural procrastination due to garden implement disorganization, is quite simply a garden shed organization.

But how do you go about organizing your gardening stuff? Well, it may be hard to do, but the first thing you need to do to get things orderly and organized is to totally unpack your shed. Take out the rolls of wire would only be useful for fencing in a horse and a few cows (unless you have livestock, then it’s alright), remove the 12 cans of designer stain that have long ago separated because you left them in the shed all winter and they froze. Throw out everything that can’t be used, give away anything that you haven’t used in a year.

Now that you have gotten everything out of the shed, it’s time for a thorough cleaning. Maybe even a fresh coat of paint on the inside will brighten things up and keep the spiders from weaving webs in every eave and corner. You can also use this time that your tools are out to fix up any problems, tighten the wheels on your lawnmower, and oil up any gears and hinges.

Before putting items back into your shed take the time to add shelves and or hooks. Although an assortment of three inch nails hung your father’s gardening tools, times have changed. In my opinion, those nails are an invitation for spiders to create string art in your shed. Go to your local hardware store and purchase some proper hooks. The hooks are inexpensive and sturdy and plastic coated. Proper hooks and shelving are a worthwhile investment.

Now you can put everything back into a better organized shiny clean garden shed. Knowing that everything has a place, and that you’ve gotten rid of the stock pile of broken tools and cracked pots, will make gardening such a easy chore now. Although it might seem like a lot of work to reorganize and fix everything up, it will be well worth it in the end.

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Over time garden sheds need repair. I would say that a decent garden shed only has 12-16 years before it is in need of replacement or a good over-haul. The exception to this rule are perhaps garden sheds that were originally built like residential structures and treated the same over the years.

Many factors are involved in deciding whether to fix or replace your old garden shed, including your budget, how much you like your current shed (in good shape that is), whether it suits your purposes, and whether it suits your house style.

I was faced with this very question twice this past summer. My own garden shed was a crooked disaster and my mothers much larger garden shed leaked like a sieve. With my mothers shed the answer was simple. She had a very large shed with a loft. The walls seemed straight enough. It would be too much work and expense to tear it down and rebuild. Furthermore, it would have been a lot of work and it was too pretty to replace. We decided to tear off the roof and tear out the flooring over the joists and replace both. The total repair cost was $550.00

Our shed was a different story. Our shed was hidden around the side of our house and really out of view of the house or the back deck. It was approximately 3 feet by 8 feet and about 6 feet tall. Like my mother’s shed it had board and batten siding made out of wide planks. We knew both the roof and floor including the joists and sills were rotten. We thought we had a complete rebuild on our hands.

Our first step was to price out the cost of a building a replacement. We made a list of all of the material we would need and it came to $550 plus 13% tax. One of us a remembered seeing a really cute shed at 50% off in the same price range. We figured we might as well save the time and buy new if that was at all a possibility. After a bit of searching we learned that we could get a smaller ugly resin shed for $650 plus tax. The idea of buying new was shelved.

After thinking for a bit more, we decided that perhaps with a bit of extra work, we could save money and also save the old character, by recycling the siding, and building the structure new. As it turns out, this was quite a bit of work, but we saved over 50% on the original material estimate, and we ended up with a brand new old shed, which won’t start sagging for many more years. We are both quite pleased with the final look, especially saving the old aged board and batten siding.

In both cases we were dealing with homes that were over a century old and we felt that the sheds really needed to match the older aesthetic of the houses. In both cases we decided to keep the wood that was salvageable and rebuild the roof, floor, and in our case, the frame. We ended up with 2 very pretty sheds and I think we managed to keep both budgets as low as possible. There are many factors to consider when faced with a garden shed in need of repairs. Do your homework and figure out various budgets. The right answer for your garden shed will become evident.

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Pine needles have a natural look that will add to any yard and landscaping design. And no matter where you may live, you can usually find someone who has a pine tree on his or her property but needs to remove the fallen needles. In my area I wait until fall clean up and knock on doors to remove their pine needle and other fall leaves.

Pine trees drop a percentage of their needles in the fall. The needles will add acidity to the area they cover, which will kill the grass and make holes in your yard. In a pine forest or around certain trees this doesn’t matter, but in your yard it may create a problem.

But using pine needles in select areas of your yard as a mulch can be beneficial. Choose areas where your acid loving plants will appreciate the nutrients added to the soil as the needles decay. Azaleas, rhododendron, chrysanthemum and roses benefit from acidic soil.

Onions, garlic, mint and tomatoes are a few of the plants in your vegetable and herb garden, which would also enjoy the acid boost. I must admit I have not used pine needle in a garden area.

A mulch using pine needles or pine straw adds a rich brown surface and a fine texture to the area that they cover. This looks particularly attractive with azaleas, and areas that you want a naturalized look, such as a wooded area or terraced hillside.

Another benefit of pine needles is that they shade the soil in the summertime. This prevents moisture from evaporating as quickly cutting back on water usage and watering time in the landscape. In the colder months, a layer of pine needles acts as a blanket to protect the roots of the plant. Pine needles are perfect for winterizing plants, trees and shrubs in your landscape design.

Pine needle mulch also cuts back on weeding. The few weeds that manage to survive and surface are small and incredibly easy to pull out.

It’s recommended that you start with a 3-inch layer of needles. Pine needles break down slowly, so this first layer should last 3 to 5 months in most climates.  I often lay down a few layers of newspaper and apply the pine needle on top of that. The pine mulch  cover will last 3 times as long. Using this method I have no weeds and add new pine needles to even out the mulch layer and add a fresh look to the landscape.

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