A small indoor greenhouse is perfect for starting bedding plants, healing a plant or as an indoor winter project for children. Such a project encourages an interest in nature and gardening for children.

One of the easiest small greenhouses is created by using a 2 or 3 liter clear pop bottle and cutting the top off about 3 inches from the bottom.  Full instructions for a pop bottle greenhouse can be found here: Pop Bottle Greenhouse

Creating a small Indoor Greenhouse

For a larger mini indoor greenhouse you can use an aquarium. Start by cutting a sheet of 1/4-inch-thick, clear plastic, so it is slightly bigger than the top of the aquarium. A tabletop or circular saw can be used to cut the plastic to the proper size. You can also measure the aquarium and buy a piece of Plexi-glass at a local lumber store. I ask for the seconds or left over pieces to get a better price.

Next drill three rows of three 1/4-inch holes in the top of the plastic sheet. You will want to space the holes 1 inch apart and center the rows in the middle of the plastic sheet. This is for ventilation.

Set a seed starting flat in the bottom of a 10 or 20-gallon aquarium. (I buy my used aquariums at an auction house or garage sale. You can either fill the flat with potting soil and sow seeds directly in it or set plant pots inside the flat. I usually set pots in the flat. I have more control over moving plants if they are individually planted in pots.

You will want to place a thermometer inside the aquarium. Choose the thermometers location by checking to see hoe easy it is to view through the glass. Set the plastic cover on top of the aquarium and place it in a brightly lit window or under a grow-light fixture. You now have a controlled climate that is perfect for starting seeds.

You may want to use grow lights for 12 to 14 hours a day, if there is no sunlight available for your greenhouse. My downstairs kitchen has a large window that has available light all day long. If the day is cloudy I might choose add additional lighting. You can tell if you need more lighting if your plants are getting tall and skinny.

Note: Watch your thermometer and remove the top of the greenhouse if the temperature inside climbs above 80 degrees Fahrenheit.  The seeds may die if the heat is too warm. Replace the cover when temperatures drop below 80 F. This is a general rule for most seedlings. There are some plants that prefer a cooler starting temperature. To determine the proper temperature, do a little research on the seeds you are starting.

Water the soil in the flat inside the greenhouse when the condensation inside the glass begins to decline. Water from underneath. I use a tray and set the plants in that and them drain. You develop better roots from under-watering and have less soil disease problems.

Don’t over water your plants. Check the condensation and use that as a guide.
Small plastic aquariums make suitable greenhouses for single plants. I often use a small greenhouse like this for sick plants.

The plants you start in your small indoor greenhouse can be used to beautify your backyard gardens and patio areas. And if your children participate they will be able to enjoy the plants during the summer.

 

Garden centers have a full and impressive selection of bulbs for next years landscaping needs. As fresh as the bulbs are this is a great time to select new varieties of start a bulb garden.

A bulb garden or addition of bulbs to your backyard will make a easy backyard project that will take little space and be affordable.

Tips for planting bulbs in the fall

One mistake many new gardeners make with planting bulbs is finding the right time to plant them. This has been a mistake I made for many years.

Always wait and plant the bulbs after the first frost. You can prepare the soil and garden beds before so that you are ready to plant the bulbs in a few hours.

A bulb planter will also help you to get the correct depth for the bulb. Most large bulbs are planted around eight inches deep and six inches apart. Smaller bulbs are placed around five inches deep and three inches apart. Read the directions on the package for how deep and far apart to plant your bulb variety.

If bulbs are bought individually, there is usually a guide in the store for planting. Make note of the planting directions. I usually take a note pad with me when buying new plants to write down any additional information form the store or employees.

Bulbs do not need fertilizer, but a bulb releasing food is good. Avoid using bone meal because it attracts some animals.

Place the bulb with the tip up and replace the soil. If you are not sure which end the tip is, plant the bulb on its side. The side of the bulb is always easy to tell and the plant will grow correctly. (If you plant the bulb upside down it will struggle to grow.)

Pat the soil in place and water thoroughly. You may want to mulch the area to help retain water.

Note: if you live in an area where animals may bother your plants you may want to plant the bulbs in a metal net container, in a pail with no bottom or place chicken mesh over the soil to protect the bulbs.

 

There’s a change in the weather here in NW Pa. So I spent time preparing a holding bed for the new perennials I picked up and for more that I am getting in a few days. There’s a perennial sale on so its time to revamp the backyard oasis!

In the fall a holding bed is one of the most useful garden tools I have. Yes, it’s a garden bed or sorts but a necessity if you’re diving and moving plants.

I usually make a quick raised bed out of any wood I can pick up for free and match its measurements to old windows or shower doors. (Just in case I have to cover the holding beds against frost or cold.) Old dresser drawers also work well and since I usually use these beds for a few weeks any old dresser drawer will work.

Set you holding beds up in an area of the backyard that is close to water and will get some shade, since theses are transplants and need protection for all day sun.

I use these holding beds for perennials I am diving, new perennials, flowers I am moving and for cool weather annuals that I want to add color to the backyard.

I have also used a holding bed for sick plants while I am nursing them back to health.

The nice thing about a holding bed is that it temporary. I usually put it in a place in the backyard that needs better soil and create the bed. After I am done I remove the bed and rake toe soil over the top of the ground, add compost and I have a area with better soil that I can either plant in the following year or reseed with grass.

Tip: If your nights are cooling down to less than 50 degrees it time to start bring in any indoor houseplants you moved outside for the summer. I also start moving in geraniums, which I over winter for the following year

 

Fresh herbs will spice up any recipe and your own kitchen herb garden container will put them within arms reach. And by raising your won herbs you also have control over any pesticides on the plants.

Herbs are also a great alternative to salt and may also have crafting uses. Herbal soaps are one of my winter projects I like to create.

Decide which herbs you will use the most and buy either seeds or seedling plants. There are certain herbs I seem to be able to grow from seeds and other I struggle with. (Hint: In the fall you can find great prices on perennial herbs.)

Some popular cooking herbs are basil, dill, oregano, rosemary, cilantro, chives, parsley, sage and thyme. Rosemary is one of my favorite herbs for both seasoning and crafting but this is an herb I seem to need to grow from a plant.

To grow an outdoor herbal kitchen container garden you will need one to three containers. I prefer clay pots but ceramic and even plastic are fine. I also like handcrafted pots. Its just adds color and interest to your garden areas.

Choose a container that is big enough to hold all the herbs that you are planting. I find I like one larger container like an 18-inch container and two smaller containers.

Make sure your container is deep enough that you can go several days without watering. If your planting container doesn’t have holes in it, drill a couple of holes in the bottom to aid in proper drainage.

Place about an inch of pea gravel or broken pot shards in the bottom of the container for drainage. Fill the container with potting soil up to ½ from the top of the container and position your herbs. Make sure you give the plants room to grow and do not overcrowd them. Most seed packets or plants that are bought will give you spacing instructions. I fins 6 to 8 inches work well for most herbs.

Once you have your herbs in place pat the soil down and water the herbs. Take tender care of them for the first few weeks until the herbs are settled and start to grow. Often during this time I will cover the container with plastic at night to add more warmth and control the climate around the plants.

Enjoy your new kitchen herb container garden.

Herb Tips:
1.  Pinch the leaves back to encourage new growth.
2.  Do not let the herbs flower because it takes away from the flavor of the herbs.
3.  If you containers are large you can place them on a roller or moveable stand to bring them indoors during the fall if you have cold nights.

For a chance to win a Kitchen Herb Garden check out the Gardeners Rake herb contest.

 

While selecting hybrid tea roses for my new rose garden project I chose the Chrysler Imperial rose. It’s a beautiful hybrid tea rose that’s been around since the 1950′s. It’s known for its beauty and is perfect for a cutting garden.

22nd March
Creative Commons License photo credit: niall62

The bloom of this rose are a beautiful red color and has an exquisite rose fragrance that makes it stand out from most roses.

The buds are tapered and open into high-centered flowers up to 5 inches across, with a rich, deep, velvety red color. Add baby’s breath to this flower and place in a vase and it makes a statement.

The strongly scented flowers start blooming in late spring and will repeat throughout the summer with deadheading and cutting flowers. They will take a small break and produce another display of blooms in the fall.

The foliage is semi-glossy and deep green with thorny canes so care must be used when pruning and cutting flowers. The rose bush grows to 3-6 feet tall and about 3 feet wide. And as with most roses they will grow more in warmer climates.
Growing Information and How To Care For Imperial Chrysler roses

This rose plant will grow in an upright form, so it looks best if planted in groups of three or more.

The fragrant, long-stemmed rose make an excellent cut flower, so you might want to grow these roses in a cutting garden with a good sunny exposure. A sunny site is a must for this rose as it is not shade tolerant.

Planting location

Plant the rose plant in a spot with good air circulation and be prepared to spray if black spot and mildew is a problem in your area. This rose grows best in Zones 6-9.

Note:The Chrysler Imperial is not a cold hardy rose. Cold temperatures bring our rose diseases, such as black spot and mildew.

*This is why I decided not to grow this plant in my soon to be Rose garden. Instead I will plant it in a container and place it in the sunroom where it will get warm temperatures, plenty of sun and have a dry climate.

Dedicada a Ana Paula
Creative Commons License photo credit: Daniel M. Viero

Many rose do very well in containers so we will consider this an experiment. Its a beautiful rose so if it does well I might consider one more rose container plant for the sunroom next year.

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